Contents:
- Understanding Dermaplaning and the Myth
- How Does Dermaplaning Actually Work on Your Skin?
- What Gets Removed
- What Stays Intact
- What Dermaplaning Actually Does for Your Skin
- Genuine Benefits You’ll Notice
- The Timeline: When Your Hair Returns to Normal
- A Real-World Perspective
- Who Shouldn’t Get Dermaplaning
- Dermaplaning vs. Other Hair Removal Methods
- Maximising Results Beyond Hair Removal
- Post-Dermaplaning Skincare
- Frequency
- Budget Breakdown for Regular Dermaplaning
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Does dermaplaning make hair grow back darker?
- How often should I get dermaplaning done?
- Can I dermaplane at home?
- Will dermaplaning cause ingrown hairs?
- Is dermaplaning safe for sensitive skin?
- Moving Forward with Confidence
Women have been removing fine facial hair for centuries. Ancient Egyptians used a combination of sugar and water called sugaring, whilst Roman women famously used pumice stones and early versions of razors. Yet the worry remains the same: will removing this hair make it come back darker, thicker, or more noticeable? Dermaplaning, a modern take on an old practice, has sparked the same concern among people today. Let’s cut through the mythology and explore what actually happens when you dermaplane.
Understanding Dermaplaning and the Myth
Dermaplaning is a physical exfoliation technique where a professional uses a sterile, surgical-grade blade at a 45-degree angle to gently scrape away dead skin cells and fine vellus hair (those soft, light hairs on your face often called “peach fuzz”). The procedure typically takes 30 minutes and feels remarkably gentle despite its technical-sounding name.
The central myth is straightforward: removing hair makes it grow back thicker. This belief is so widespread that dermatologists call it one of the most common misconceptions about hair removal. Why does this myth persist? When hair is removed by cutting at the skin’s surface, the blunt edge of new growth can feel slightly coarser compared to the naturally tapered tip of untouched hair. It’s purely optical and textural—not biological.
Here’s the reality: hair thickness is determined by your genetics and hormones, not by whether you cut it. A 2007 study in the British Medical Journal examined this exact question and found no evidence that shaving, waxing, or dermaplaning makes hair grow back thicker. The diameter of your hair follicles doesn’t change based on removal methods.
How Does Dermaplaning Actually Work on Your Skin?
To understand whether dermaplaning affects hair regrowth, you need to know what’s actually happening beneath the surface. Dermaplaning only removes hair above the skin line. The hair follicle itself—the living structure beneath the epidermis—remains completely untouched.
What Gets Removed
- Dead skin cells from the outer layer (stratum corneum)
- Vellus hair above the skin’s surface
- A thin layer of fine, damaged skin
What Stays Intact
- Hair follicles and roots
- Living skin cells beneath the surface
- Your skin’s natural moisture barrier (when done correctly)
Because the follicle structure isn’t altered, the new hair that grows in will be identical to what you had before. The only difference you might notice is a few days of stubble—the same sensation you’d get from any method that cuts hair at the skin’s surface.
What Dermaplaning Actually Does for Your Skin
Here’s where dermaplaning genuinely shines. Even though it won’t change your hair, it delivers real benefits for your skin. Professional dermaplaning treatments cost between £60 and £150 in the UK, depending on location and practitioner experience.
Genuine Benefits You’ll Notice
Improved product absorption. Removing dead skin cells means serums, moisturisers, and other skincare products penetrate more effectively. Many people report their skincare routine working noticeably better after dermaplaning.
Smoother skin texture. That layer of dead skin and fine hair is what makes your skin feel slightly dull or rough. Once removed, your complexion appears brighter and feels silkier. Results typically last 3-4 weeks before the dead skin layer rebuilds.
More effective makeup application. Without the fine hairs and dead skin, foundation applies more evenly and lasts longer throughout the day. Many makeup artists recommend dermaplaning before important events.
Reduced appearance of fine lines. This is indirect but significant. Plumper, hydrated skin (achieved through better product absorption) naturally shows fine lines less prominently. The exfoliation also stimulates collagen production, which improves skin firmness over time.
The Timeline: When Your Hair Returns to Normal
Here’s a practical question: how long before you see regrowth? Hair grows at approximately 0.3-0.4mm per day on the face, meaning visible stubble typically appears within 2-3 days. By week 3-4, you’ll have noticeable regrowth, though it remains soft and fine—exactly as it was before.
Many people schedule dermaplaning monthly or every 4-6 weeks as part of their skincare routine. Unlike waxing or threading, which pull hair from the root and create a longer period of smoothness, dermaplaning needs to be repeated more frequently because it only cuts hair at the surface. However, this also means less irritation and downtime.
A Real-World Perspective
Sarah, a 34-year-old marketing manager from Manchester, was convinced that dermaplaning had made her facial hair worse. “I tried it once at a clinic and panicked after three weeks when the hair came back,” she explains. “I assumed they’d damaged something.” What she didn’t realise was that she’d simply never noticed her natural hair growth before because she’d been waxing every six weeks. Waxing left longer gaps between hair being visible; dermaplaning’s shorter cycle meant she was more aware of the stubble phase. Once she understood the timeline, she started regular monthly treatments and became comfortable with the process.
Who Shouldn’t Get Dermaplaning
While dermaplaning is safe for most people, certain conditions warrant caution. Avoid dermaplaning if you have:
- Active acne or inflamed breakouts
- Rosacea or severe sensitivity
- Recent chemical peels or laser treatments (wait 1-2 weeks)
- Wounds or cuts on your face
- Certain medications that thin the skin (consult your GP)
If you have darker skin tones, you can still dermaplane, but ensure your practitioner has specific training. Improper technique increases the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in some individuals.
Dermaplaning vs. Other Hair Removal Methods
How does dermaplaning stack against alternatives? None of these methods make hair grow back thicker—that’s consistent across all removal techniques—but they differ in cost, longevity, and skin impact.
| Method | Cost (UK average) | Lasts | Hair regrowth feel |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dermaplaning | £60-150 per session | 3-4 weeks | Soft, fine (unchanged) |
| Waxing | £15-40 | 4-6 weeks | Soft initially, regrows from root |
| Threading | £8-20 | 3-6 weeks | Soft, fine (unchanged) |
| Shaving | £2-5 per razor | 1-3 days | May feel slightly blunt initially |
Maximising Results Beyond Hair Removal
Since the real value of dermaplaning lies in skin exfoliation, not hair removal, here’s how to maximise those benefits.
Post-Dermaplaning Skincare
For the 24 hours after treatment, avoid direct sunlight, heat exposure, and heavy exercise. Your skin barrier is temporarily more permeable. Apply a gentle, hydrating moisturiser and use SPF 30 minimum (SPF 50 is better). Within 48 hours, you can resume normal activity, but continue using sunscreen—new skin is more photosensitive.
Frequency
Monthly dermaplaning is ideal for most people. More frequent treatments won’t accelerate hair loss and risk over-exfoliating, which damages your skin barrier. Some practitioners recommend doing it every 4-6 weeks instead, which is also effective.
Budget Breakdown for Regular Dermaplaning
- Monthly professional treatment: £60-150 = £720-1,800 annually
- At-home dermaplaning tool: £30-80 one-time cost (though professional results are superior)
- Post-treatment SPF and moisturiser: £20-50 monthly
If cost is a concern, at-home options exist, but professionals use sharper blades and greater precision, yielding better results and lower injury risk.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does dermaplaning make hair grow back darker?
No. Hair colour is genetically determined and doesn’t change based on removal. The perception of darkness sometimes occurs because newly cut hair has a blunt edge rather than a tapered tip, which can catch light differently. This is purely visual, not biological.
How often should I get dermaplaning done?
Most dermatologists recommend every 4-6 weeks for optimal skin exfoliation benefits. Monthly treatments are also common and safe. More frequent sessions risk over-exfoliating, whilst longer intervals reduce the skincare benefits.
Can I dermaplane at home?
Yes, but professionals achieve better results. At-home tools (£30-80) work, but they’re typically less sharp and harder to control. Professional dermaplaning uses surgical-grade blades and proper technique to minimise irritation. If you’re budget-conscious, professional treatments every 6-8 weeks combined with gentle at-home exfoliation between sessions is a reasonable compromise.
Will dermaplaning cause ingrown hairs?
Dermaplaning doesn’t remove hair from the root, so ingrown hairs are extremely rare. You’re much more likely to get ingrown hairs from waxing or epilating, which pull hair from the follicle. Dermaplaning’s surface-level approach actually makes ingrown hairs less likely.
Is dermaplaning safe for sensitive skin?
Generally yes, but caution is needed. If you have rosacea, active acne, or severe sensitivity, consult a dermatologist first. For sensitive but otherwise healthy skin, dermaplaning is gentler than many other exfoliation methods, since there’s no pulling or chemical irritation involved.
Moving Forward with Confidence
The evidence is clear: dermaplaning will not make your hair grow back thicker, darker, or coarser. What it will do is exfoliate your skin beautifully, improve product absorption, and create a smoother canvas for makeup. The regrowth you see after 2-3 weeks is identical to what you had before—fine, soft vellus hair that’s completely normal.
If you’re considering dermaplaning, base your decision on the genuine skin benefits, not on myth. Book a consultation with a qualified aesthetician who can assess your skin type and determine whether it’s right for you. If it suits your skin and budget, it’s a worthwhile addition to your skincare routine. And if you decide it’s not for you, rest assured that choosing a different hair removal method won’t somehow make your hair grow back differently. The choice is yours, and either way, your hair will behave exactly as biology intended.